So this is the simplest way I found to setup my failsafe for my DX7 radio with my NAZA lite flight controller, it was the most effective and helpful way of doing it with my DX7 and NAZA lite flight controller. The only change I will make to this is setting up the failsafe on the original DX7, I will capitalize all the words in the section that explains how to set failsafe when your transmitter is turned off after point number 4 and hopefully this mini tutorial will help you out. I take no credit for the info what so ever but thought I’d just copy and paste it to the blog here and hopefully it benefits you.
FAIL SAFE SETUP
1. The actual failsafe functionality resides in the receiver.
It has the ability to fall back on a specific channel setting when TX signal is lost.
2. You cannot setup a TX signal loss failsafe without having a receiver that supports failsafe.
3. Because the failsafe on the Naza works on the same channel as the control mode switch.
We cannot set the failsafe to activate with a standard defined switch position.
It needs to be set on the same channel as the control mode switch but in between one of the modes. (GPS-ATTI-MAN)
The problem is the TX only had a 3 position switch. So how do you set it in between?Step by step guide
SET FAILSAFE FOR ATTI MODE (this is just a test of the failsafe to make sure it works, we will change a few things after we happy that it actually works)
5. Plug in the copter/receiver. The receiver LED will start flashing. This indicates its looking for something to bind to.
10. Preset Failsafe binding is now complete.
TEST TO SEE IF FAILSAFE IS WORKING
1. Turn the transmitter on (if its off)
7. Now switch off your transmitter.
SET FAILSAFE FOR TX SIGNAL LOSS
1. GO TO THE FUNCTION LIST
2. GO TO FLAP SYS.
3. SELECT (MID) – ( I INTERCHANGED THE GEAR PLUG AND AUX 1 PLUGS ON THE RECEIVER SO THAT I WOULD HAVE A 3 WAY TOGGLE SWITCH )
4. FLICK THE FLIGHT MODE SWITCH SO THAT ITS ON GPS ( UP/NORM ) ON FLAP CHANNEL AND THEN DECREASE THAT TO 50% – IT PUTS IT INTO THE FAILSAFE BLOCK ( HIGHLIGHTED BLUE )
5. *NOTE* – MY SWITCH IS AUX 1 – I WON’T SEE GEAR, PITCH, AUX 2, OR AUX3 FOR A SELECTION ( SEE STEP 5 BELOW)
5. Flick your control mode switch and check to see which channel its on. GER, PIT, AX2 or AX3.
6. While watching the control mode switch postition on the naza assistant,
Remember the two percentages of travel for the CMS channel (we will be changing it back to this when we are done)
Now change the travel on the control mode channel servo travel until the tab moves away from either GPS or MAN. Move it to failsafe.
7. Once failsafe lights up blue, exit the assistant, unplug the copter from the pc, turn the copter off and then the transmitter.
8. DO NOT CHANGE ANY SWITCH POSITIONS AFTER STEP 6!
9. Make sure everything is turned off.
10. Insert the bind plug into the bind port on the receiver
11. Plug in the copter/receiver. The receiver LED will start flashing. This indicates its looking for something to bind to.12. NOW REMOVE THE BIND PLUG BEFORE TURNING ON THE TRANSMITTER! LED will continue to flash.
13. Make sure your transmitter is OFF.
14. Now hold down the trainer button while powering on the transmitter. Hold the button until it says its binding and displays DSMX.
Then release the trainer/bind button.
15. Once binding is complete the transmitter will reboot and go into normal flight mode. The LED on the receiver will now be solid.
16. Preset Failsafe binding is now complete.FIX THE SERVO TRAVEL & TEST THE FAILSAFE
1. On the transmitter, go to Function List, then Servo setup then change the channel travel percentages back to what they were before.
2. Plug everything into the PC and check to see if the channel performs correctly. Must be able to select GPS, ATTI and MAN.
3. While wathcing the channel position, turn off your transmitter. It should light up the failsafe on the Naza assistant bar.
4. If it doesnt, start with step 1 of SET FAILSAFE FOR TX SIGNAL LOSS
I take no credit for the following information but thought I would share the exact steps with you and hopefully you can get your failsafe to work with the following steps. I would like to thank GRIMX from rcgroups for posting this info as I found it extremely helpful and following the exact steps posted helped me immediately the first time. I hope this helps.
P.S. – here is the link to that exact list of instructions if you are looking for it ……. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2081759
If your one of the lucky one’s to own an Open Pilot CC3D but your having a little trouble calibrating your ESC’s then don’t worry as I’ve found a bit of info for you. I myself have picked up one of these boards as well recently and I have been going through the motions of setting up my own board. The thing I highly recommend is going through the tutorials on the Open Pilot website thoroughly and signing up for the Open Pilot forums. The only difference between setting up this board is whether your using a windows computer or a mac computer and what the heck the control is on the mac for the “home” key. I will keep this post very brief for you here and just to let you know that if your looking for the steps to calibrate your ESC’s you can find it at this LINK HERE. The confusing part of ESC setup process is that your going to hear two things, either remove the red wire for your ESCs which is suggested on the Open Pilot website, or like a friend of mine mentioned ” he hadn’t removed any red wires and his board works fine. I personally followed the instructions and have removed the red wire on 3 of my ESCs out of 4 for my quad copter. If your looking for a video on ” How to remove the red wire” for your ESCs then you can find that video HERE. If you really want to see a straight forward and quick video on how to calibrate the ESCs using the GCS then you can watch this excellent video below from wrcfan21 on You Tube and maybe give him a thumbs up and hit subscribe.
The final thing I just wanted to mention for you mac users like my self is about that “HOME KEY” , if you have a look on your keyboard for a button that looks like ( fn ) for function and the backwards arrow ( < ) , then those two buttons combined when pressed simultaneously are your “HOME KEY” during the ESC calibration on the GCS. I hope this post was helpful and not too confusing for you and that you have luck setting up your board. Thanks for taking the time to read the post and if your interested , then I welcome you to stop by RCHelimenace on Facebook and maybe even hit the the “Like” button.
For as long as I can remember when I became interested in multi rotors and finally built my first quad copter I knew I wanted to get my hands on an Open Pilot control board. I did start out with the FY-90Q board which seemed alright, it was plug and play and simple to setup however I never really got it to the point of the way I thought it should perform. I wasn’t looking for a snappy super fast reacting board but I did want crisp response and this one seemed a bit sluggish in my opinion. Recently this June my birthday had came and I was in the market again to look for a Copter Control board and interestingly enough it seemed a few companies were given the rights to produce some of these boards which had made it even more accessible to the public. The one company (store) I had come across was on Twitter and they go by the name ReadyMadeRC.com were actually selling the Copter Control boards and it was the CC3D model. So without any hesitation of course , I went online and made the purchase and sure enough it had arrived within a couple weeks. The board looked really nicely made with good solder joints and the mini usb plugin on the board did not seem to give any indication it would break off ( like the megapirate) that seem to have quite a few complaints about it.
Now if your interested in this board I do have to warn you that you need to be aware that you will have to connect this board to a computer, you will have to download the appropriate GCS (Ground Control Station) for this board and the appropriate boot loader for the board. Do be aware that the version 13 does seem to have a bit of trouble at the moment therefore you do need to just upload version 12 ( Mayan Apocalypse ) with the version 3 boot loader. If you want to know why you can only use version 12 you can find out in the link here. The other thing I also recommend is joining the Open Pilot Forums, this way should you have any trouble with your board in the manner of downloads or settings in the GCS this community is sure to help any newbie ( even me ) when it comes to this board. I have to be honest and let you know that I am not an authority on this Copter Control board what so ever but I thought I would just share a bit of info to help you get going. The one thing I can say is that even if you just download the GCS and review it before your board arrives to your door then you are going to be a little bit more comfortable when it comes to using it.
When setting up the board you do need to install it on the multi rotor of choice, I’m currently setting it up on a quad. Make sure the board is facing the right direction on the quad ( the forward direction ) and that you have the quad copter sitting on a nice level surface since the board mainly controls the attitude of the frame. The next thing you do is hook up a micro USB plug to the board and at the other end of the wire plug the regular sized USB to your computer and then start up the GCS program. The program automatically detects the board and connects it to the program and from there you just go step by step to what the program is telling you to do, it really is a no-brainer. If you are wondering what the flashing LED lights on the board mean you can find it in this link here in the bootloader update page ( if you need a visual idea ) as well if you need to update your board with the latest stuff you can do it there as well if you needed to and it will explain how to do it.
Finally , getting to the point of setting up your board will take a bit of time so just give yourself a chance and go through everything carefully and thoroughly before you start loading things on the board. You do have to make sure the stuff is compatible and if you do have any questions I do encourage you to sign up on the forums because there is a good chance you will get your questions answered faster than I could ever do for you. If you are looking for the download page for the GCS setup wizard then you are going to find it on this link here . Further more, if you just want to see what to expect from the GCS and only read the content without downloading the program yet then you can find all that info here. The other great thing about this program is that you can program the board to understand the inputs from your own radio. I do have to admit this sequence threw me off a bit. You can find everything you need to know about how to setup your radio here as well without downloading the program just yet- here in this link. In the part of the radio setup page, if you go straight to the part where it says calibration , you do have the option of either using the program to do it automatically or your can input your settings manually. I chose to use to use the program to do it personally so I could get used to everything before I got too carried away.
This is the part that confused me a little ,
I understood what it was asking and so I did it, what confused me was why my stick inputs were opposite from what I was seeing on the screen, however don’t worry about that because when you get to the next step here,
all I needed to do was move my cursor to the little check marks in the box and click it to remove the check mark only and then I moved my sticks on my radio and screen corresponded with what my radio was doing then everything functioned like it was supposed to. The last thing I do want to mention is that I did run my CC3D board at least 3 times trying to figure out why I couldn’t get it to “Arm” but all it was was that I never got things calibrated right until I slowed down and was a lot more thorough in my understanding of the GCS. I hope this brief blog post gave you a bit of help and insight as well as some sort of direction in sorting out any issues you may have with it. Keep in mind I’ve only been playing with this board for 3 days and a few things finally clicked, I have not had a flight yet with it but as soon as I do I will post a video on the progress. Lastly I just wanted to show you a quick video of how I would like to see my progress turn out , here is that video and wish me luck !
Neither this video or the pictures posted in this blog are mine , nor do I profit or benefit in any way but I thought I would share it in order to help you out. If this post did indeed help you out don’t be afraid to leave a comment here on the blog and you can also head over to Facebook and “LIKE RCHelimenace “. Thanks for stopping by !
Recently I came across a video in which I am sure quite a few of have seen already but I really liked this one and thought I should share it with you. What it is is a totally interesting creation designed by “Mad Labs” where a hex copter and an RC spider are amalgamated into one. I was always interested in hooking up my cameras to the underside of my helicopters but never really considered attaching anything robotic to it. I know this video has nothing to do with aerial photography or video but it does include a hexcopter therefore I think I can let it slide. Mad labs already has a few videos showing this arachnid flying creation in motion which introduces a whole new aspect to the hobby. What they have done is taken a hex copter frame and attached it to the top of robotic spider pod. Here are a couple of videos showing this thing in action.
Now of course you can buy a hex copter frame just about anywhere nowadays but if your a DIY ‘er like me then this is probably right up your alley. The site where they had actually picked up this cool hex pod spider can be found here Trossen Robotics and they item you would be looking for is the PhantomX AX Hexapod Mark II. Now the thing that you have to keep in mind if you plan to build one of your own is that you will actually require two people to control this thing, one person for the hex copter ( an experienced pilot ) and one person for the hexapod itself. Making one of your own is going to be quite expensive and the tested weight load capability of the hexapod (spider) is only at 4lbs. I hope you found this posting really intriguing and I look forward to hearing about any other cool designs others have come up with. Here is one final video showing the hexapod in action, it actually looks pretty realistic by the characteristics. Enjoy.
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